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I am having the exact same issue.  Every once in a while, I'll start it up, move just a few feet, and it will sputter and cut off.   I'll start it back up and it runs fine.   It only happens sporadically when I first start to take off.  Any ideas what it could be?  I recently had the spark plugs changed and the fuel service/throttle body service done but it still does this sporadically.    

Hi jorge1. Yes. Be proactive. You should flush/fill the cooling system and change the plugs, if they were not previously changed.  You should also flush/fill the transmission fluid. And drain/refill the PTU/differential fluid.  And also perform all other scheduled maintenance, as per the Maintenance Schedule in your Owners Manual specifies.   The belt is probably okay, but that can only be verified by visual inspection.  I'm sure others will jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck.

I have a 2019 ford fusion titanium...I have 127k on it nothing is wrong at the moment but should I winterize radiator and have it flushed out? What about my spark plugs replaced and change my alternator belt? Should I be proactive or should I leave it alone??? 

Hi Colinb813. Blind Internet diagnosis is not going to be much help in a case like this.  In my opinion, you will need to have your vehicke properly/professionally diagnosed by a Ford Dealer or shop you trust.    I'm sure others will jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck. 

Hi Carl D. That price seems high.    Get the part number from the parts department of your Dealership. Then get several competing estimates from the Parts Departments at several different Ford Dealers in your area. And also online Ford parts sellers.    it still won’t be cheap, but that price seems a bit high. Also, availability may be low at this point.    Let us know how you make out and good luck. 

Hi tom beckage. No. You need to drop the pan if you want to drain it or change the filter.    Good luck. 

Who is your local dealer? How did they fix it for $4000? My dealer told me the part alone (entire dash) would be $13,000!! Labor additional! 

I did some searching and found the solution to the Check Headlamp message... Sylvania makes a 6 ohm resistor designed just for this issue! They're around $20 a pair or less depending on where you buy them. You connect each wire to both wires going to and coming from the bulb, NOT inline. Yeah, one wire goes to the hot wire and one goes to the ground wire. Tons of reviews said they tried these and they work! BUT, the get super hot! So, I'm not willing to try anything that runs the risk of something getting too hot under my hood so I'm going to pass on these resistors. I just bought the car and have 7 years of payments ahead.   On another note, someone mentioned they simply moved their LED lights from their low beam sockets to the fog light sockets and got no warning messages, so I thought I'd try this. It worked AWESOME!!! The fog lights used to light up may a foot wider than the car and were really dim, even though they were halogens. Now the LED bulbs light up like 10 feet on each side of the car!!! Seriously, these Cougar Motor LED's light up the entire left shoulder AND right shoulder of the road, not just in front of the car! I'm guessing it's because of how they reflect inside the housing. All I know for sure it this was a perfect decision to try! And, they have a perfect upper cut-off line so nobody gets blinded. Since I bought Xenon bulbs for the fog lights and they're H11's, I just ended up putting those into the low beams and they're so much brighter with NO dash warnings! I'm making progress, just down by one high beam.

The weirdest thing happened today when I was replacing my low beams! All of a sudden I now have ONE high beam working, the passenger side! The drivers side is still not working but I guess one is better than none for now. I even tried several different bulbs on the driver's side but no luck on that high beam.