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OK so im having the same issue. First time i had the issue i brought it in paid $2500 to get it fixed. My son is driving it home and it comes back on. So i call ford and they said we noticed you had a bad tire on the car that was causing the steering to shake heavily and it "might have caused the fault to occur". So im pretty pissed just spending a ton of money and it could have been just a new tire. So i bring the tire to the shop get a new tire on it and drive the car back to the shop 10miles away with no power steering while my son follows in my car. We leave and b4 we make it home they call and tell me the car is rdy. So at this point im thinking i just paid for a power steering repair when it was  a tire and a reset. So my son lets a tire get really bad again and the power steering fault comes back. I drive it up there and they are trying to sell me a new power steering system. I explained what happened last time with the bad tire and after beating around the bush for 30mins she tells me yah we can reset it but itll be a week b4 we can look at it.  Sorry for the wall of text but i really want to be able to do this myself. Ive read in many places not just in this forum that it can be reset in ForScan if you have the OBD 2 connector and a laptop. But nobody has posted a walkthrough. Can someone plz point me in the right direction of a walkthrough. Thank You

Hi, i’m currently having this exact same problem with the same remote start fob. Did you figure out how to fix it?

Hi gang. Just to avoid any confusion: Our Fusion, and all North American Ford Fusions, were made in Hermosillo, Mexico.    The EU equivalent to our Fusion was/is the Ford Mondeo, but it was manufactured in the EU and not imported here.    There was/is a European Ford model with the Fusion name, but it is a compact, 4-door hatchback, was/is manufactured in the EU, was not imported here, and bears no relationship at all to our Fusion.   Good luck. 

Wish I had a time machine to help out. Just recently went through the wringer with this one. My VIN shows It was made in Mexico. Nothing wrong with that, but it is VERY hard to cypher the correct hubs and parts for these. If the sensors drop down through the knuckle, it's likely a Mexican build. Different parts, hubs on mine were SKF 309 or something like that. O'reilly, Auto Zone, Advance, Rock Auto, Detroit Axle- no one had a bright idea what was happening. The Motorcraft ones are out-of-this- world expensive. Don't use anything but the SKF's- they are budget minded and actually work. MOTORCRAFT sensors. Anything else is hit and miss- and no one wants to continuously go under the car, replacing things over and over until it's a hit.

My thoughts land on the calipers freezing up/ not retracting when getting your foot off the brake pedal. The calipers may not be releasing all the way, causing it to retain pressure on the pads/ rotors. The other thought is, dis your dad go through the maintenance mode by using an Autel or similar device? My 2013 has a maintenance mode, only viewable on the Autel computer that my club owns. It is supposed to be activated before the pads are changed, then de-activated once the maintenance is complete. It was a BIG pain in my side when my magnetic rings failed here in Wisconsin weather. First, it was the hub failure; then the wheel speed sensors. then the hubs were not recognized by the on board computer; then the sensors were not recognized; then the e-brake went into maintenance mode. My dash was lit up like a Christmas tree. I found out, that, just by turning the calipers in was not enough. That's how I found out about the maintenance mode on the Autel. SO I changed the pads, changed rotors, found the right hubs FORD likes (SKF309-something), and MOTORCRAFT wheel speed sensors... apparently the fusion only likes those. I also opted for new e-brake motors, but I sent them back after all the other lights went off. If a wheel sensor isn't recognized, the hill assist, ABS, and e-brake lights all come on until the right combination is achieved... but I digress. Back to the calipers. If they drag, all kinds of bad stuff happens. Use the maintenance mode, replace the calipers, screw everything back as it is supposed to be according to Hoyle and the great FORD Gods, and you might be- mIGHT be- okay. Thoughts from a ragged out fusion (from Mexico) owner 

Hi PaulVE and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. Unfortunately, blind Internet diagnosis is difficult at best. However in this case, your description would lead one to believe it is a cable issue, since moving the cable "back and forth" temporarily fixes it every time. While it is perplexing that it keeps reoccurring even after you have cleaned and tightened the post/terminal and connection, it would still seem to be a cable/battery issue.    I am sure other members will jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck. 

I'm approaching 170k miles on my 2010 FFH. It's been amazingly reliable. I bought it with 90k miles on it 9 years ago. For a little while, I did get the "stop safely now" when driving long distances in the summer heat, but after replacing the MECS pump, I have not had that issue pop up since. I also reset the HV battery age a few years ago using ForScan which restored its peppy acceleration and improved the fuel mileage a bit. Other than that it's been regular maintenance only. I'm thinking about what I would replace this car with when that time comes. I would love to get another hybrid because mine has been such an amazing car. I've looked into the Toyota Camry hybrids but I don't want to pay the Toyota premium when the Ford Fusion is just as reliable (in my experience) for way less money and even better looking. I know the 2nd generation moved to a smaller 2.0 engine and different HV battery and a few other minor changes. Are these 2nd generation FFH just as reliable? Anything else to look out for with the new powertrain? I would be looking at 2017+ model years. Also considering MKZ Hybrid.

Intermittent problem. 2010 Fusion SE. Will not start unless negative battery cable is moved back and forth. Contacts have been cleaned and tightened. Problem still occurs.

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