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Wish I had a time machine to help out. Just recently went through the wringer with this one. My VIN shows It was made in Mexico. Nothing wrong with that, but it is VERY hard to cypher the correct hubs and parts for these. If the sensors drop down through the knuckle, it's likely a Mexican build. Different parts, hubs on mine were SKF 309 or something like that. O'reilly, Auto Zone, Advance, Rock Auto, Detroit Axle- no one had a bright idea what was happening. The Motorcraft ones are out-of-this- world expensive. Don't use anything but the SKF's- they are budget minded and actually work. MOTORCRAFT sensors. Anything else is hit and miss- and no one wants to continuously go under the car, replacing things over and over until it's a hit.

My thoughts land on the calipers freezing up/ not retracting when getting your foot off the brake pedal. The calipers may not be releasing all the way, causing it to retain pressure on the pads/ rotors. The other thought is, dis your dad go through the maintenance mode by using an Autel or similar device? My 2013 has a maintenance mode, only viewable on the Autel computer that my club owns. It is supposed to be activated before the pads are changed, then de-activated once the maintenance is complete. It was a BIG pain in my side when my magnetic rings failed here in Wisconsin weather. First, it was the hub failure; then the wheel speed sensors. then the hubs were not recognized by the on board computer; then the sensors were not recognized; then the e-brake went into maintenance mode. My dash was lit up like a Christmas tree. I found out, that, just by turning the calipers in was not enough. That's how I found out about the maintenance mode on the Autel. SO I changed the pads, changed rotors, found the right hubs FORD likes (SKF309-something), and MOTORCRAFT wheel speed sensors... apparently the fusion only likes those. I also opted for new e-brake motors, but I sent them back after all the other lights went off. If a wheel sensor isn't recognized, the hill assist, ABS, and e-brake lights all come on until the right combination is achieved... but I digress. Back to the calipers. If they drag, all kinds of bad stuff happens. Use the maintenance mode, replace the calipers, screw everything back as it is supposed to be according to Hoyle and the great FORD Gods, and you might be- mIGHT be- okay. Thoughts from a ragged out fusion (from Mexico) owner 

Hi PaulVE and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. Unfortunately, blind Internet diagnosis is difficult at best. However in this case, your description would lead one to believe it is a cable issue, since moving the cable "back and forth" temporarily fixes it every time. While it is perplexing that it keeps reoccurring even after you have cleaned and tightened the post/terminal and connection, it would still seem to be a cable/battery issue.    I am sure other members will jump in to help, so keep us updated and good luck. 

I'm approaching 170k miles on my 2010 FFH. It's been amazingly reliable. I bought it with 90k miles on it 9 years ago. For a little while, I did get the "stop safely now" when driving long distances in the summer heat, but after replacing the MECS pump, I have not had that issue pop up since. I also reset the HV battery age a few years ago using ForScan which restored its peppy acceleration and improved the fuel mileage a bit. Other than that it's been regular maintenance only. I'm thinking about what I would replace this car with when that time comes. I would love to get another hybrid because mine has been such an amazing car. I've looked into the Toyota Camry hybrids but I don't want to pay the Toyota premium when the Ford Fusion is just as reliable (in my experience) for way less money and even better looking. I know the 2nd generation moved to a smaller 2.0 engine and different HV battery and a few other minor changes. Are these 2nd generation FFH just as reliable? Anything else to look out for with the new powertrain? I would be looking at 2017+ model years. Also considering MKZ Hybrid.

Intermittent problem. 2010 Fusion SE. Will not start unless negative battery cable is moved back and forth. Contacts have been cleaned and tightened. Problem still occurs.

March 3 -- and nothing loading.

So long story short It has started this occasional  stalling out for no apparent reason, hence why wife stopped driving it.   I been driving it and it has only done it to me once in a great while.   Then  wife took it to put fuel in it about 8 months ago and it would not start for her for several minutes.  Left her stranded at the fuel pump, Then before I got there (35 Min away)  it started and she moved it to a parking spot off the pumps. When I got there it started ok for me and ran ok for me.   I been driving it off and on since.  About 2 months ago it started making this noise and it seems louder the harder you are running it, it will also stall you out if you come to a slow down or stop.    

I have a 2015 hybrid, 129k miles  Got the upstream sensor codes, replaced the sensor but still doesn't show activity on the scanner using datastream. Just zero, i also have a 2016 and i swapped sensors, the new one shows activity on the 2016 and i drove it several days with the new sensor, drives fine, so the sensor is not the problem, I'm thinking the harness or the fuse under the hood, i checked 7 n 8 and both look good, i swapped fuses anyway from the 2016 and nothing, i need help, if i use a multimeter on the harness what values should i get and on what pins? Driving me crazy, i drove it with the o2 sensor reading 0.0 and i get 44 mpg but i need to fix it, i can't drive it like this, any input is appreciated   P0053 and p0135 are the codes 

Hi JC Leyva and welcome to the Ford Fusion Forum. If you go to the "Wheels and Tires" sub-forum, there is a pinned thread explaining what fits etc.    Welcome again and good luck.