VonoreTn

FusionDiffusion, My wires all look good, almost like new. Rockauto shows the 2010 upstream O2 sensor for the FFH as either the Motorcraft DY1042 (before 7/6/09) or the Bosch #17475. My car was picked up new in late August of 2009. My VIN is 3FADP0L36AR189313. I wonder if they made a change, and on which side of the change I am on.

If I can go another 3 years before I need a new battery, I will have saved $9000 in gas cost, hopefully a new battery will be less than that, if I need it then. I heard that Escape Hybrids in California taxi fleets have gone as much as 300,000 miles on the original NiMh batteries. That's further than the distance to the moon Here is my mpg based on keeping full records of every fill up. http://i911.photobuc...mpgvsmiles1.jpg

Well, the $11 Advanced Auto hardened steel socket below didn't work, it expanded at about 75 ft lbs of torque and slipped. Cold engine. No heat added. I think it did manage to round off the corners of the sensor hex. It looks like it didn't damage the socket, and of course that's all heat treatment and alloy buys you, more strength but no higher modulus of elasticity. http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/vonoretn/FFH/ I think I will order the DY-1120 O2 sensor from RockAuto.com, then when I get it, cut the current wire and use a regular 22 mm deep socket with a 1/2" drive. I just hope the code is correct and the light goes out.

Is this what you suggest? http://www.harborfreight.com/7-8-eighth-inch-oxygen-sensor-socket-95045.html Wait, I just found out that Advanced Auto, 10 miles away has one for $10, that's cheaper because Harbor Freight is $9 shipping, or 50 miles away by car. I have read elsewhere that even these sockets don't always work if the sensor is frozen in solid. Also read that if you heat the "bung" they come out easily with a regular wrench. I assume the bung is the base the sensor screws into, not the sensor.

Thanks again. That worked. Squeezing and prying at the middle of the joint popped it. Thanks. I sprayed both sides with contact cleaner, but the light is still on. But while I have a good forged 7/8" wrench, I cannot get the sensor loose from the cast iron manifold. Part of the problem is that the heat shield prevents getting a solid engagement of the open ended wrench on the sensor. Did you remove the heat shield? I put PB Blaster on the sensor thread base, and I'll try again tomorrow, plus try to find a friend with a 7/8" wrench that is longer than my 12". Are you sure about the DY-1120 sensor? I find that part listed for the 2011 FFH, but not the 2010 FFH at Rockauto.com. $83 plus shipping is reasonable. I checked one plug while I was in there, it looked good with a .053" gap, not eroded or fouled.

Thanks to both of you. I'm having trouble disconnecting the upper electrical connector, and I'm working down below some plumbing. Do I pull this tab out real hard, or push it in real hard, because it doesn't seem to want to move. http://s911.photobucket.com/albums/ac317/vonoretn/FFH/

My FFH at ~63,000 miles has the "Service Engine Soon" warning light displayed. At first it was intermittent, now it is on all the time. I have no driving issues, I'm getting my normal 40-43 mpg. When I have the codes checked at my local Advanced Auto store (free), they pull a P0130 code, and their OBDII readout says Oxy Sensor, Bank 1, circuit 1. Advanced shows that part costs $273 (I think it is electrically heated). Rockauto.com shows Oxygen sensors from $25 to $174 for the FFH, that suggest they are for the front bank, but some have oval and some have round connectors. If there is anyone with FFH oxygen sensor knowledge here, please advise. I have had no other issues with the vehicle, and still don't for performance and driveability. Are emission items covered on any warranty other than the 3/36? I didn't get an extended warranty, and I'm not sorry about that yet.

I had a similar issue on an Explorer where I complained about a noise, which resulted in a shortfall after the warranty period. Since I had the Ford service receipt which listed my complaint and their response, which was to do nothing, They did fix it after the warranty period for free. But I got no where with the service manager, I had to go to the Dealership owner, who told his guys to fix it for no charge. I was very polite yet firm through the whole transaction. I hope you kept your Service receipt.

Any ideas on how to get an assessment of what failed in the TB? I'm guessing that whoever the supplier is of that part to Ford has a good guess at what failed, after analyzing some failed parts. 46K miles is just out of warranty, not a design success story. Also they might know if the replacement parts have been upgraded. Would this have been covered in the extended warranty? If so, whoever didn't get the extended warranty is still way ahead if he can fix it for $200 and there are no other extended warranty zone failures. The cheapest extended warranty I heard of was about $1200. My dealer wanted $1800. I didn't get it. Haven't needed it so far at 61K miles.

Thanks for the education. What you say sounds reasonable, drive by wire. I would still spend the time to pull the TB out and look it over, if it's off warranty. If there is a 10% chance it's just sticky, you might still save the servo motor. Servo motors can only deal with a certain amount of torque. I have successfully replaced servo motors in speedometer units, and saved people a lot of money. I soldered them into the instrument panel board. But I'm guessing, without looking, that this particular FFH servo motor would either be too integrated in the TB, or simply not available as a separate part yet. Still, lowering the friction and therefore the servo motor torque required is directionally correct.

If it was my issue, assuming that I am sure I am off all Ford warranty with my FFH, I would take the TB off (not that hard) and clean it good for starters. Use some carb cleaner and get all the carbon out of it. Keep the carb cleaner away from rubber and plastic parts, that's one reason you want to remove the TB from the engine area. A well used TB will have carbon in it and will have a tendency to stick in the closed position, just because of the adhesive effect of the carbon and gas layer in the area. Also lubricate the TB plate shaft, until it moves freely. Make sure the cables move freely while you have them disconnected. If not, pump some WD40 (not carb cleaner) in the ends until they do move easily. I would also make sure that the throttle position sensor TPS rotates easily. I think this is an encoder, and may need some contact spray or WD40 to loosen it up. Should take you about an hour max. There's just not that much to a TB, it's a lot simpler device than the carburetors we grew up with. And usually more reliable. I would definitely not be buying a new TB if the dealer has already looked at it and didn't find anything wrong. Is the speed control function involved in any way? OK, I'll ask what hit your tire? ;-)

Mine has not come back on after another tank of gas. While the light was on the road mileage was below normal, about 36 mpg. Now the mileage is back up over 40 and the wrench light has not come back on. Since I didn't pull any codes, I'm not going to worry about it. My FFH switches back and forth from electric to gas if the battery charge is high, and I am vacillating above and below 45 mph. But it is seamless, I would never notice it without the dash status.

Nothing happened when I did that, it ran good, no wrench light.

I'm going to wait for a symptom of a problem or a code, now that the car is back in the home area. O2 sensors are only about $30 apiece, they screw into the exhaust and have an electrical connector on them. A high or low reading on them could be dozens of other issues, I assume the computer is smart enough to know the difference between a high or low reading and a failed O2 sensor.

I just had Advanced auto put a code reader on it and they got no codes. I tried to do a vehicle health report, and the car screen said it was submitted, but the syncmyride.com website hasn't received it. They did one for me a couple of years ago but now when I access sync it just says that my health report has expired.

My Wife made it home with no problems, other than she had to stop twice to get the wrench light to go off. It stayed off for the last 200 miles. No rough running engine. I have seen the TB mentioned on other threads here as the culprit for a rough running engine and the wrench light, and I am hoping that someone with more specific information can tell me what about the TB causes the rough running engine. I have cleaned my own and other peoples TB's in the past and I consider them to be very simple devices, compared to carburetors that I used to rebuild years ago. Of course they are in a complex system with the MAF sensor, the throttle position sensor, and a bunch of other stuff, but the TB itself is a simple thing that I would not want to spend $652 at a dealer for any service related to it, as occurred elsewhere on this forum. The only shortfall for TB's I have seen are carbon build up and a sticky throttle plate, but that is fairly easy to fix at no cost, just my own labor. "Since it's not covered by the powertrain warranty, the repair cost me $652.67" thread comment 44, at http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?showtopic=6624&st=40&k=bb2fe024f8a71424996db6d9af08c1fc&settingNewSkin=3

You both sound like an intelligent guys to me, and gentlemen, but I have to give the edge to Allen (aKirby) in the discussion on future purchases but for a different reason than the anecdotal versus statistical data perspective. Ford has worked very hard to get their quality level up to the level of Toyota and Honda. Here's the thing, one of the reasons there is a shortage of jobs for American engineers is because Americans love to buy foreign cars, having no national loyalty in this area. Yes I know foreign cars have assembly plants here, but that's not where they do 90% their engineering. They do their engineering in their own country, that's where the automotive related college level jobs are. Ford does it's engineering in Dearborn, where they have thousands of well paid American engineers designing Fords. I will always support American automotive companies that create college level jobs, because I want to support the next generation of American college graduates. I am disappointed that American car buyers have such a low level of national loyalty, yet they wonder why we are in a recession, or why their kids and grandkids with college degrees can't get good jobs. It used to be the quality, but I think we are past that, and as Allen points out, the only way we can demonstrate that is through the statistics, not by generalizing about a rare incident. So please give America a break.

The service manual just says this for the wrench light: Throttle Control/Powertrain malfunction (RTT): Illuminates when a powertrain fault has been detected. If the indicator stays on or continues to come on, contact your authorized dealer as soon as possible. Elsewhere on this forum someone said it could be an early indicator of low tire pressure as one tire rotation per minute gets higher than the other 3. http://www.fordfusionforum.com/index.php?/topic/5126-awd-was-acting-weird/

My Wife just called, 300 miles from home, cruising toward home in our FFH and the wrench engine light just came on. The manual just says to contact a dealer as soon as possible, some kind of powertrain warning. Does anyone have any experience with the wrench light? These things always seem to happen on Sunday. She pulled over and restarted the engine, and it did not come back on as of now. We have about 60 thousand miles on the vehicle and have had no issues. If it comes back on I'm going to have her stop at an Advanced Auto or Autozone and see if they pull any codes with their free OBD2 diagnostic test.

I get my biggest deviations between computer and fill-up data on road trips sometimes involving obviously poorly maintained pumps. Often a low or high fill-up mpg is offset by the next fill-up, since maybe a nozzle clicked off too soon. But the deviation still goes into my calculation record. Then there is the variation of vehicle angle to level when filling up. The computer record would be independent of fill-up abnormalities.

I track that too. The average over statement of FE by the FFH computer versus actual based on fill-up data is 0.28 mpg for all 115 fill-ups. Some higher, some lower. Usually the computer is pretty darn close, and definitely giving you good feedback. Off topic digression: I always just add one click off of gas after the first automatic clicks off occurs. I have had bad experiences with over clicking the fill-up process with my Daughter's vehicle, if you do that to the point of getting gas in the vent hole near the cap, you can saturate the evaporative emissions system, which is only designed to slowly deal with fumes, not raw gas, and then your vent won't work, and you can get an early click off before fill-up is complete. And the dealers just can't deal with fixing it, too complicated and expensive. Opening the vent to air would fix it, but then in a roll-over accident fuel would be leaking, so you do not want to do that. Bottom line, don't keep clicking the gas nozzle trigger once it is full.

My full mileage record is attached, for the first 56,000 miles. Both actual mileage based on gas fill-up data and what the FFH computer said my mileage was for that tank of gas. In general the low numbers were in cold weather, high speed driving (>70mph), or going up long continental grades.

Has anyone gotten enough miles, or due to some other reason had to have their high voltage nickel metal hydride battery pack replaced on their FFH? If so what was the cost? I'm at 56000 miles and getting better mileage than ever. I just got 52 mpg average going to and from a small town 17 miles away, on back roads, with the AC on today. My overall average for 2.5 years is 39 and slowly going up. Based on my previous vehicle and miles per year, I have saved $1500 a year in gas. If the price of gas keeps rising, approaching Europe's, I expect to save even more.

My mileage usually shows 40 or higher, but my average for 56,000 miles based on complete fill up data is 39. Better in warm weather, and in slower driving. Worse going 75 on the highway, up hills into the wind. Worse case has been going west across Kansas and east Colorado, up hill all the way, to get to the ski mountains in the winter, very hard of FE, and we have done it 3 times now, mid 30's all the way. My maximum miles at fill up was 580. It's not an important number, since running your tank close to empty is not a good idea. The fuel pump relies on the fuel it sits in to cool it and replacing a fuel pump is about $500. Fill up more often and run a cool fuel pump.

Ha! I raised one person's standard of living! You're welcome Breakfast Pirate!