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Grey

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Posts posted by Grey

  1. Same, had mine done early (ok, not by me). Then around 8900 miles it started suggesting that an oil change was coming due. At 10K miles the suggestion turned into a warning, and that's what I have now. What did we forget to reset?

     

    Thanks,

    Tim

    An oil change is required whenever indicated by the message center. Go to the instrument cluster, setup menu, vehicle settings and oil life.

    To reset the oil monitoring system to 100% (or another value) after each oil change perform the following:

    While Oil Life is highlighted, press RESET to select it and move right to display the following:

    • Set to 100% • Set to 90%

    • Set to 80% • Set to 70%

    • Set to 60% • Set to 50%

    • Set to 40% • Set to 30%

    • Set to 20% • Set to 10%

    Press SETUP to scroll through the list and highlight one of the choices.

    Press RESET to pick the highlighted item.

     

    If you want to be conservative, set it to 80% and thst will give you an early reminder. There are a lot of other functions you can set on this menu (starting on about page 17 of the owner's manual.) :shift:

  2. Only use a 5w20 or 0w20 that meets the Ford specification M2C930A. Do not us a 5w30 -it won't meet the Ford spec and is too viscous at operating temperature. There are several threads on this subject if you want to be smarter than the corner lube guy. :shift:

  3. Ford is saying 8-10 weeks for delivery for the fleet customers - 4 weeks if they order a rapid fulfillment unit (already produced). The are scheduling Oct. 19 production now. Milan Hybrid ---plan on an extra week--- don't know why.

     

    If your unit takes longer than "normal", try to figure out when it was verified. The clock doesn't start 'till then.

     

    Since the "Special" white paint has extra processes, they may batch produce them - hold them for a week or so to run then all together. :headspin:

  4. Nobody knows, but unlikely. Current tax credit of $850 runs through March 30, 2010 for those that have not ordered yet.

     

    There may be a few misc. incentives like military, quarter horse association or recent college grad. Ask your dealership to run a VinCent yours comes in. That will tell you everything that might be possible. But don't count on a rebate or interest rate deal. :shift:

  5. My car was made in May and the battery failed two days after I bought it in August. Failed load test. Red marker in "sight glass". When I check voltage across the terminals on a ICE car I usually see 14-14.5 with the engine running. On the hybrid with the ICE running I get 13. Is this correct?

     

    I don't know, but it makes sense that they could regulate the charge voltage down a bit, since the ICE starts off the Hybrid battery pack. :shift:

  6. Many batteries thought to be bad are merely discharged. To know for sure, they should be fully charged and load tested. The testers today are much better than 15 years ago, but I still would like to see how they load test with a full charge.

     

    If a battery has an open circuti, it will not do anything. If plates are shorted out, the reserve capacity will be spent fairly rapidly and the battery should be replaced. If it is merely discharged, look at the charging system and grounds as a possible cause, then start looking for key off electrical draw - relay stuck, light on, etc. :banghead:

  7. Well I got my order in yesterday to beat the Sept. 30 deadline for the $1700 tax credit. Ordered the 502A. Got the Tuxedo Black with the Black leather interior. Dealer says the wait time right now is 4 to 7 weeks. I guess we'll see. Got it using the Xplan pricing for $30026. I've seen some of you talking on the forum about looking your order up on Ford's site to see the status. How do you do this?

    There is a phone number that only Ford dealers are authorized to use, but it gets out. You will need your order number, body type, dealer code and a good story if you get a real person instead of the automated attendent. The system is updated on Thur. evenings so the dealers can get the latest scheduling Friday mornings. You should really call your dealership on Fridays and ask them to check the status of your build. By tomorrow you should ask them for a copy of your DORA - that is the confirmation from Ford that the order was accepted (verified, etc.) Keep that and your dated purchase order with your tax records.

     

    If you are lucky, you may be scheduled the week of Oct. 19 at the earliest. If there are other earlier orders in the system from this dealership, or a later order gets a higher priority, that will push you back. Check with the dealership on the 16th.

  8. The dealers have had lots of communications from Ford that explain the process, but alas, many don't share everything with salespeople. It's high on our radar because we have a vested interest - to many of them it's just another detail amid the millions.

     

    When you special order a vehicle is represents a committment to pay for it and take delivery when it arrives. The IRS recognizes that and allows for the time lag between "Purchase" and delivery.

     

    If your order is in, keep a dated copy with your tax records. (There has to be one because Ford requires a faxed copy of it - and your drivers license- to verify the order is retail and not a stock order). :shift:

  9. Thanks for posting that link Jason. You and akirby are exactly correct. Hopefully the tax software program suppliers will make it simplier for people to understand next year. What they leave out on the 8910 form is the purchase date tied to the % credit. You will be asked to show the % of the total tax credit you are claiming - which means you have to know the rules for your vehicle specifically. The delivery date is when you take possession (not when you ordered) - that controls the tax year for which the credit may be claimed.

     

    It won't be the first time an IRS agent had no clue about the rules.

     

    Sadly, too many people will be confused and miss the credit they are entitled to, or put the order date in the delivery date box, trying to make the form look right. :finger:

  10. I live in GA and ordered from OC Welch in SC. They're one of the largest Ford dealers in the country. No idea if that has anything to do with it. Possibly it's just faster because I live in the South and they're shipping from Mexico.

     

    Did they happen to tell you how many orders are ahead of you in the scheduling system for their store. Do any other orders, placed after you ordered, have a higher priority than they placed on your vehicle? Ordering from a large dealership may not mean faster delivery. If they get 3 pulls for October production and you are number 5 on the list, you might wait another month. :shift:

  11. I wonder if it has something to do with the fact that prices went up again for the 2010 Fusion Hybrids. The cost supposedly went up roughly $450-500 per FFH.

     

    On July 24, the Hybrid cost went up just over $300. The x-plan price will be on the invoice, so don't fret about them ripping you off. Whoever you were talking to may have mot been able to get into concepts at the time, or needed a manager to verify the pricing before they gave it to you. Regardless, you should be price protected at the 025 level when your order is accepted by Ford. Get a dated copy of the purchase order and check back in a few days to make sure the order was accepted by Ford (ie. verified with a copy of the purchase order and your drivers license faxed to HQ). There likely will not be any incentives om the FFH, so the x-plan price on the invoice will be what you should pay + doc fees of up to $75. Ask for a copy of the DORA (dealer order acceptance) from Ford just to keep with your tax records - it just backs up your dated purchase order. :shift:

  12. [

    When your dealership faxes a copy of your purchase order and drivers license to verification HQ, they will match it up with the dealer's order that is sitting in limbo, and release it to the scheduling system. That can take a day or two. At the time the order is accepted by Ford, the dealership can obtain a DORA. Soooooo--- there has to be a dated purchase order that you can get a copy of to maintain with your tax files. The DORA is just additional back-up that the order was in fact accepted by Ford. It should have your name on it and the date the order was accepted by Ford and should be available in 2-3 working days.

     

    You do not need to leave a deposit, if they don't ask for one.

     

    Ordering represents the purchase for the IRS. It is the committment to buy, and that date is used to determine the tax credit. The dste you take possession dictates the year for which you may claim the tax credit. If you order by Sept. 30, you qualify for the $1,700. If you take possession before Dec. 31, 2009, you can claim the credit against your 2009 taxes. If the delivery takes place after Dec. 31, you will wait untill 2011 to claim the $1,700 credit against your 2010 taxes.

     

    We believe the tax software companies will uncomplicate the 8910 form for us. The key details are:

    What is the maximum credit? ($3,400)

    When did you order?

    Based on your purchase order date, what % may you claim? (Before 3/31/09 - 100%) (4/1 - 9/30 - 50%) (10/1/09 - 3/31/2010 - 25%)

    When did you take delivery?

     

    If it is still not clear, check back here for filing details. We can walk you through it. :shift:

  13. After nearly 11 weeks, I finally got a VIN and a build date on my MMH. It is supposed to be built the week of 10/11 with delivery at the end of Oct. or first week of Nov. That would be 16 to 17 weeks from the day I placed my order. It looks like I could be the new "winner" for longest delivery time. :)

     

    Ask the dealership for a copy of the DORA. Tell them you need to keep it with your tax records. That will tell you when they ordered your vehicle from Ford. :shift:

  14. Have any of you noticed a residue or coating on the dash? I have a black interior and mainly on the passenger dash above the glove compartment I notice there's an uneven residue that is more glossy than below.

     

    Chances are it was something the prep guys sprayed as they were cleaning the windshield. Ford says wipe it off with a slightly damp clean white cloth and dry with another cloth. If that doesn't remove it, add a very little soap mixture to the damp cloth. wipe and dry. Or if is a heavy amount of residue, lay the slightly soapy damp cloth on the area and leave it for 30 minutes or more, then wipe it dry with a clean cloth.

     

    So many surfaces are clear coated, you do not want to use anything more agressive than necessary. :shift:

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