VonoreTn Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 The light just came on for the first time today. Just the light that is shaped like an engine. How do I interpret and repair these issues? I have an Innova 3030 code reader that does powertrain, chassis and body codes. The 5 minute average instantaneous mpg seemed a little low on a familiar road course, maybe 39 versus 42. No other symptoms while driving for an hour today with the engine light on. I have not tried to erase the codes yet. Does anyone have any familiarity with these codes on this vehicle? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 The U3003 code might be caused by low battery voltage. So, I'll ask the question that akirby would ask - how old is the battery? I would erase the codes and see if any of them come back and then go from there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 P 2450 may be a fuel vapor vent valve or the automatic capless fuel opening. Check to make sure that is clean and functioning. The C 1018 is about regen braking but may be spurious. U3003 is low 12 vdc battery voltage during start. You know my advice Rick, change the 12 vdc battery and spray WD 40 on the fuel inlet. Lee 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 The U3003 code might be caused by low battery voltage. So, I'll ask the question that akirby would ask - how old is the battery? I would erase the codes and see if any of them come back and then go from there. I erased them, the engine light is out now after 10 miles, but I still get a P2450 (1) code now instead of P2450 (3) code. The other 2 codes are gone. I think the (3) was a counter in my Nnova 3030 OBD2 code reader that records the number of events. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) Thanks for your responses. My 12 volt battery reads 12.17 before startup after 5 hours in the garage. It jumps to 13.72 when I start it, before the engine runs. The battery was purchased at a dealer on 6/17/15, and has 21,000 miles on it. The green dot is still showing on top the battery. My first 12 volt battery lasted 111,670 miles. I don't think there is anything wrong with this one, although I'd rather it read about 12.3. I erased all the codes, they all went away except the P2450, 1 event comes back. But the engine light does not come on yet. It read P2450 (3) before, I assume my NNOVA 3030 obd2 code reader is telling me that was 3 events before. I checked my cannister purge valve, which I read had some issues in 2009. With the wire and hose disconnected, I feel no vacuum on it, so I assume it is properly closed, as it supposed to be with the wire disconnected. Nice to find out it is easily accessible for test, up high next to the throttle body. Is there a trick to start the ICE for testing when it is just sitting in the garage? I had to put it in gear and give it some gas, with the brake on, which worked once but not twice. I can find nothing about the C1018 code. One person on obd-codes.com advised me it is a hybrid issue and I should see the dealer. But the code hasn't come back yet. Edited June 23, 2017 by VonoreTn 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 You beat me to it. I was going to send you this link for checking the purge valve. It's pretty detailed. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 You can start the ICE when car is "on" by pressing down on the accelerator pedal about 1/3. The ICE will start and run as long as you hold the pedal. You can only get about 1500 rpm with full pedal. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 The "red" dot on the battery is supposed to be "green" but it's not very reliable. I'd still change the battery as the first expenditure. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 The "red" dot on the battery is supposed to be "green" but it's not very reliable. I'd still change the battery as the first expenditure. Lee, I meant to say green, I even took a picture of it green with my phone. I'll edit my error. I'll check the battery with my 100 amp load tester later today. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Even if it passes the load test, buy a new battery before you spend money on anything else. Multiple codes are symptomatic of battery problems. I can't explain why. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 The battery reads 10.6 volts at 100 amp load, vehicle off, no key. I am pretty sure there is no load from the vehicle that would put close to that many amps on the 12 volt battery, without the engine, generator, and high voltage battery available to support it. When my first battery finally failed at 111K miles, it would drop to 7 volts at 100 amp, but even that was not an issue to drive it to the dealer. All I had to do was charge the battery, start it, and once the engine was running, it read 13.6 all the way to the dealer. Right now there are no codes or engine lights on, but the C1018 and the U3003 did reoccur once, since I erased them the first time 2 days ago. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 Did you ever have TSB 10B13 applied to your vehicle? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Did you ever have TSB 10B13 applied to your vehicle? No. The regen is working based on the charging arrow pointing up everytime I touch the brake pedal. And I've never had any brake transition issues. But our 2010 FFH was definitely built before Oct. 4. 2010 Maybe the dealer did it while it was on warranty, I'll check with them. Thanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 That probably wouldn't cause your present problems. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 TSB 10B13 addresses a software issue with regenerative braking which may generate spurious DTC's like the C1018. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 You can't go by voltage under load. Test the cranking amps with a solar tester. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 The main fault manifestation cured by 10 B 13 was a loss of computer braking which was interpreted by drivers as a complete loss of braking since you had to push more than an inch further down on the brake pedal. It was an over sensitive computer braking fault sensing. It probably threw DTC's also but not about evaporative emissions or low battery. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 The TSV 10B13 is related to a problem with the software for the regenerative braking which caused the vehicle to transition unnecessarily to conventional brakes. The software fix may well cure the spurious C1018 codes. Definitely not related to the evap or low battery codes. The OP's battery test seems to confirm that it is good. The 100A load test is a better indicator than the impedance tests performed by testers that try to derive a guess at CCA by those methods. Read about that here. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/how_to_measure_cca_cold_cranking_amp 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I've been involved with 12 vdc batteries all my life and had 600 ampere hours of batteries in my sailboat for 29 years. I am at a loss to explain why battery tests described above are, in my opinion, insufficient in identifying batteries that when replaced, cure these multiple DTCs. That opinion is derived empirically from participation in several FFH forums in the last 8 years. As these cars get out of warranty, I think the first response to multiple DTCs should be replacement of the 12 vdc battery for about $120 plus labor if you can't do it yourself. That's about what Ford's going to charge you for diagnosis. This goes against my lifelong grain of not changing things unless you know they're broken but it is my opinion now about these batteries. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eGuru Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I've been involved with 12 vdc batteries all my life and had 600 ampere hours of batteries in my sailboat for 29 years. I am at a loss to explain why battery tests described above are, in my opinion, insufficient in identifying batteries that when replaced, cure these multiple DTCs. That opinion is derived empirically from participation in several FFH forums in the last 8 years. As these cars get out of warranty, I think the first response to multiple DTCs should be replacement of the 12 vdc battery for about $120 plus labor if you can't do it yourself. That's about what Ford's going to charge you for diagnosis. This goes against my lifelong grain of not changing things unless you know they're broken but it is my opinion now about these batteries. You are probably correct based on your long experience with FFH. Replacing the 2 year old battery is probably cost effective troubleshooting and since they become unreliable after about 3 years is not a total loss at this point. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 You are probably correct based on your long experience with FFH. Replacing the 2 year old battery is probably cost effective troubleshooting and since they become unreliable after about 3 years is not a total loss at this point. Based on that I just drove the FFH 27 miles this morning and got 50.2 mpg round trip, have no symptoms of any problems, have no engine lights, just got a clean FFH health report from Dearborn, I am going to ignore this last batch of codes. Also I checked my cannister purge valve and it appears to be working normally. Keep in mind most home obd2 readers only do powertrain codes. Mine happens to do chassis, body and undefined codes as well. If I ever have a serious brake issue or electrical issue I will take appropriate action. I have no intention of spending any money on a dealership diagnosis with no symptoms. The FFH is not my long trip vehicle anymore, the 2015 C-Max is, which just got 51.8 mpg on an 83 mile local round trip this afternoon. Hybrids seem to like warm weather, and suburban boulevards as opposed to high speed highways. I don't see any dots to connect that I need a new 12 volt battery. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) I didn't like much the 12.17 v. after 5 hours. If the codes happen again I'd change the battery. I like to connect the dots also except for this problem. Edited June 27, 2017 by lolder 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 Three years later same 12 volt battery, Car still runs perfectly. I had the 10 year computer code one line of code adjustment made by an expert forum member recently, to restore normal battery only driving below 47 mph, thank you Jack W. I'm getting 50 mpg regularly on local rural driving. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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