Jump to content

Wrench Light - ICE "on" idle power only; EV "Limp Home"


Swaney2011
 Share

Recommended Posts

Fusion Hybrid 2011 - 78K miles - Cruising along at the "magic" 44 - 45 mph so the EV stays "on"; all of a sudden the wrench light comes "on" and if you try to accelerate the ICE remains at idle and will not pick-up the "load".

This situation can be "reset" by pulling over; stopping; shutting the car off and restarting.  The wrench light remains off and all seems normal and you can proceed with journey.  Took the Fusion in to local Ford service and they said no codes were captured and 11 modules were "tested" with all of them checking out "Okay" and within specs.  They thought it "could be" a throttle body issue, but wanted us to drop in to service when the problem was happening.(Coming in with wrench light "on")  Not really a solution that can happen as the "limp home" power is limited to the EV battery charge and service center is beyond range.  Yikes!  Any help out there with this one.

 

Obviously, this situation does not occur at any speed above 45 with EV "off" and ICE pulling the load.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went through a similar scenario, the engine would shut down while driving.  Eventually it pulled a P2112 code.  Sticking throttlebody (TB).  What is going on is the TB is not cable operated, it is drive by wire.  As such, its computer control is programmed to over-react to the throttle sticking, even if it is sticking closed.  You can see that if if it stuck open (too high a current for the servo motor to shut), that could be a bad event, so the programmers error on the safe side and any high current to the throttle plate servo motor is reacted to.   And it is easy for the plate to stick closed, if there is a lot of black carbon on the walls, where the throttle plate contacts when closed.  All I did, at 115K miles, was take the TB out, and clean it good with carb cleaner and a straight cut popsicle stick. You do not want to use a steel tool to clean it because the TB and plate are both aluminum, and could easily be damaged with a steel implement.  The TB comes off easy enough, my biggest problem was disconnecting wire connector.  You know how every connector is different and you have to stare it all sides until you find a tab to pull or push, and it comes off easily.  I finally figured it out and it came off easily.  Getting it off the engine otherwise was pretty simple, remove 4 bolts. Attached is a before and after picture.  After another 40K miles, no problems.  That fixed the event and code, free.   Do not take the side cover off like I did, not necessary.  I was just curious.  ;)

before-after 1.jpg

Edited by VonoreTn
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually it only voids that particular part from the service plan.  So I've decided to go with a Tech Smart TB;  just need to find out how to get the computer to "relearn" the replaced TB;  Any help out there on this one?  Is there a YouTube video on this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...