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Preferred Oil Filter Brand?


MiltonAllemand
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Advance Auto Parts is listing roughly a dozen oil filters for my 2011 I4 Fusion SE.

 

Any of you folks 'round these parts have a preference in brand?

 

Edit: Interesting. Looks like the 2011 Fusions are back to the spin-on filter. My 2007 used a cartridge.

 

Hi Milton. :D I prefer and use the Motorcraft filter.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

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Advance Auto Parts is listing roughly a dozen oil filters for my 2011 I4 Fusion SE.

 

Any of you folks 'round these parts have a preference in brand?

 

Edit: Interesting. Looks like the 2011 Fusions are back to the spin-on filter. My 2007 used a cartridge.

After having trouble with a FRAM filter in the 70s I've never used anything but OEM filters and have had no filter or engine problems. I have never understood people betting $10 or $15 savings a year on oil filters against an engine replacement. Just my $0.02..

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+4 on the Motorcraft. I even use Motorcraft on my '92 Voyager from time to time. Great performing filter for a great value.

 

In addition, it's pretty hard to go wrong with any filter made by Wix. If you have a Napa in your area, the Napa Gold filter is your best bet. Some auto stores sell the Wix brand directly as well.

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If you have a lubrication caused engine problem, 99% of the time it will be your responsibility, regardless of the products used. Receipts used to be good evidence that you attempted to maintain your vehicle if there was a problem. You likely won't get help now if you have a lubrication (or cooling system) caused issue.

 

I collect the coupons, go to service specials on dealer's web sites, etc. and have the dealership do my maintenance. That way if there is a problem (insuffecient oil, wrong products used, leaks from double gasketing, etc.) I can expect Ford or the dealership to make it right. If you or the corner luber mess up, don't expect Ford to cover your mistake.

 

I rarely pay over $20 for an oil/filter change or $40 with tire rotation. I got 3 coupons from Groupon for oil cnange and tire rotation for $18 at one of my local Foprd dealerships. Just keep your eyes open for the deals.

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Motorcraft filter at the dealer was made in USA and only $1 more than the cheapest made in China filter at Crappy Tire. Oil was cheaper than Crappy tire.

 

On a previous vehicle I had engine work done under warranty. Receipts and a log satisfied them that proper maintenance was taking place. Dealer said the only time they denied a claim was when the car still had a factory filter. Now Toyota's a whole different can of worms where they were denying claims for V6 engine sludging even though they knew there was a design problem.

 

If you can get coupons for cheap oil changes at the dealer, great! I haven't been able to.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

WIX, American made, 3x the filter media compared to any others, better bypass protection for those of you who use Penzoil or Quaker State. and usually cheaper than other brands.

 

What's Pennzoil or Quaker State got to do with anything? Unless you're still functioning under the 40 year old stories of engine sludge with those two brands....

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  • 6 months later...

The Ford engineers designed the specification for the Fusion filter. It provides the proper balance of strength, flow and filtering capability. For service, Ford brands these filters as Motorcraft. They produce hundred of thousands of them for production and for service. Because of the volume, they can justify using the highest quality components without significantly increasing the price.

 

Other aftermarket filter suppliers may not use the same high quality components, or might compromise size, filter media, bypass valves, etc. to fit a variety of vehicles regardless of factory specification. Remember, for them, just like with oils, it only takes one pass on the specification tests to say the design is OK, even if they had 10 previous failures with the same product.

 

The Motorcraft filters and oil products must pass the specification tests every try. Too much at stake to compromise here. I usually have my service work done at the Ford dealership, but when I do it myself, I get Motorcraft oil and filters at Walmart.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I cant think of any valid reason why you wouldnt use OEM Ford Motorcraft parts. the parts your car was designed to run with.

 

if your air conditioner in your house was designed for a certain air filter, but you saved $0.15 to put one in that will supposedly work, wouldnt you be pissed on a hot summer day when the unit freezes up due to insufficient air flow and leaves you with no AC or worse, a hefty repair bill?

 

just my 2 cents

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What's Pennzoil or Quaker State got to do with anything? Unless you're still functioning under the 40 year old stories of engine sludge with those two brands....

 

Pennzoil and Quaker State also sell filters. Last I knew they were relabeled Frams. I would avoid them too. Pennzoil and Quaker State lubricants today are among the best and I would not be afraid of using them although I make sure to use Motorcraft filters and lubricans while the car is in warranty to avoid any issues with uninformed dealership personnel.

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Motorcraft filters sold in the US are usually sourced from Purolator. The ones sold in Canada are sourced from Wix. In both cases, the oil filters are to Ford's designs and neither Purolator or Wix markets identical filters under their own labels. Air filters are a different matter though. Although it varies from part number to part number, the filter media in Motorcraft oil filters is nearly the same as in a PURE ONE Purloator, but there are many other differences.

 

Motorcraft oil filters are my first choice for high value and good price.

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i use conklin convoy motor oil in my fusion. sold by independent dealers. www.conklin.com check it out it is amazing stuff. i used it in our awd freestyle and got 26 mpg around town with it and also got an extra 3 mpg with a lifted 05 jeep grand cherokeeuseing conklin oil.

 

Checking the site, $12.25 a quart for a semi-synthetic blend. Ouch.

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Who produces Motorcraft's engine oil, and does anyone know how much synthetic oil (by precentage) is in blended engine oil products? I have wondered if this "blend" is a sham, or if there is any advantage to using it rather than going to a full synthetic? (other than full synthetics being a few dollars more in additional cost)

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Who produces Motorcraft's engine oil, and does anyone know how much synthetic oil (by precentage) is in blended engine oil products? I have wondered if this "blend" is a sham, or if there is any advantage to using it rather than going to a full synthetic? (other than full synthetics being a few dollars more in additional cost)

 

It's not a sham. The advantage is it's less expensive and it gives you all the protection you need with 5k-10k intervals.

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Motorcraft oil is manufactured to Ford specs by Conoco-Phillips. It's an excellent oil for passenger cars.

 

Here are the product data sheets for MC synthetic blend 5W20 and Mobil1 full synthetic 5W20. Not much difference for a lot more money. Note that in the category everyone seems to worry about, i.e., cold weather viscosity, the pour points of the two are virtually the same.

 

Motorcraft

 

Mobil1

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...Note that in the category everyone seems to worry about, i.e., cold weather viscosity, the pour points of the two are virtually the same.

 

I thought that the pour point is the function of an oil's viscosity. A 5W is a 5W. I still would like to know what the percentage of this "blended oil" is synthetic. Anyone?

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I thought that the pour point is the function of an oil's viscosity. A 5W is a 5W. I still would like to know what the percentage of this "blended oil" is synthetic. Anyone?

 

Don't confuse cold viscosity with pour point. Viscosity is measured by how long it takes a measured qualtity of oil to flow through a specific sized orface. W oils viscosity tests are perfromed at a low temperature, 0 F if memory serves me correctly. SAE viscosity is at a higher temperature, 100 F if memory serves me correctly.

 

For example 5/20 multi-viscosity oil flows like 5 at low temperature and like 20 at high temperature.

 

Pour point is entirely different. That is the point at which the oil flows at all. Bolow that point it is basically frozen. Pour point depends mostly on the base stocks used to blend the oil, however there are additives that can improve pour point characteristics. Generally speaking oils with the prime base stock of PAO also known as Group 4 performs best at both temperature extremes. Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge are in this catagory. Next best is Group 3. Both Group 3 and Group 4 are generally considered as synthetic, but some continue to argue that only Group 4 is a true synthetic, as it is all the same molocule, while Group 3 has more variability and is essentually a more highly refined basic oil product. Castrol Syntec (now Syntec Edge) is group 3, as is the synthetic versions of Valvoline, Kendall, Conoco, Motorcraft, Chevron, and nearly everyone else.

 

Most so called synthetic blends are actually a blend of Group 2 and Group 3. The level of Group 3 is usually only about 15%, but it is enough to truly enhance the product. Motorcraft conventional is in this catagory.

 

Don't get lost in the termonology. The conventional motor oil blending, including tipping in some Group 3, is mostly to ensure it meets the current API specifications.

 

As I said before, the greatest benefit of synthetic oils is better performance at temperature extrems. The second greatest is extended life between oil changes.

 

I'll add another dimension to the equation. Today's conventional motor oils perform as well or better than synthetic oils of 20 years ago, with the exception of extended oil change intervals. In other words, as long as the oil meets the latest API specifications as well as the auto makers requirements, you really don't need anything else expect perhaps in the coldest parts of Alaska and Siberia or unless you intend to use extended oil change intervals.

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