FFH DIY Oil Change **Step-by-Step**

[Buster1]

FFH Friends,

 

I decided to take a few pics of my first FFH oil change DIY. For those that are interested in doing it yourself, below is a description that I hope will help. Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions. ~Buster

 

Instructions are for a 2010 FFH. Please consult your OM, and as always, I do not claim any responsibility for any of the statements & instructions below, nor will I be responsible for any damage to your vehicle should anything occur by this thread or discussion. Owners assume their own responsibility and risk for following any of the below recommended steps.

 

Step 1:

Acquire the necessary oil, filters, tools, funnels, and rags. I prefer Mobile 1. Always use 5W-20 for your FFH, and make sure it meets 'specs' oulined in the OM. Below is a list of oil filters that are compatable with the 2010 FFH.

AC Delco PF53(F) ?

Mob 1 M1-102

Motorcraft FL 910S

Wix 51348

Fram PH3614 (never, worst filters on the market, but that's another thread)

Bosch 3330

 

 

Step 2:

Open the hood, remove and wipe down the oil filler cap, pull out and wipe off the dipstick and replace it, but do not seat it all the way down. I think this helps with better drainage of the oil.

 

Step 3:

Lift the car. Drive up lifts work best, but today I rotated the tires too, so I chose a frame lift. The OM doesn't discuss lift points (just the jacking points for changing a tire) so I elected to lift the car by the frame as seen below. Seemed to work out very well. Use EXTREME caution on the rear drivers side frame location as there are 2 aluminum brake lines and 2 other black lines there. I think the black lines are for the EV recharging 'stream.' The picture looks worse than it really is, as the 4 lines are recessed from the frame. But if you have poor aim, or a large lift puck you could easily crush these things. :o

 

Step 4:

Remove the plastic covers for the oil drain and oil filter. Both are clearly labeled (nice job Ford). The oil drain has 3x 7mm screws, and the oil filter panel has 4x 7mm screws and one 10mm screw. Here is the oil drain door.

 

Here is a pic with both doors removed. The front of the car is to the left. You can see the old oil filter (white thing) in there.

 

Step 5:

Using a 13mm socket, remove the oil drain plug, and drain into an approved device. Note how at first the oil shoots rearward pretty far, so be ready. You shouldn't have any problem with oil hitting the panels around the opening. Drain for 30 minutes. That's my technique, and during that time I remove the oil filter (next step) and inspect everything underneath for trouble, leaks, damage, etc. Once found a mouse nest in one of my other cars that had been sitting all winter.

 

Step 6:

Remove the oil filter with a tool of your choice. Don't worry about damaging the old filter, but go easy if possible. It will spill a little as you loosen it, and some will get on the plastic panel around the opening. This will be important to note and clean up. I'll explain later why it 'got' me.

 

Step 7:

Once fully drained, clean up everything and screw on a new filter. I always fill the new filter about 1/4 full with fresh oil and coat the rubber gasket with a light layer of oil...a light layer! Only go hand tight, USE NO TOOLS to attach the oil filter. I say again...hand tight, no tools. Then attach the plastic cover. Now put the 13mm oil drain plug back in using good pressure. Get it tight but don't go Incredible Hulk on it or you risk damage, which means replacing a significant part of the oil pan and engine case. Easy there Superman! Re-attach the oil drain cover.

 

Re-confirm everything is buttoned up down below (on the car, I know what you were thinking) and clear the area for lowering. Lower the car.

 

Step 8:

Add your oil. Now the OM says 5 qts, and somewhere else I read it takes 5.3 qts. A specialist said at Auto Zone that the .3 accounts for the amount that you put into the oil filter...I don't really know. Either way, I added about 0.2 more qts and everything checked out fine. Per the OM, do not fill to the second hole on the dipstick...that is too much. My 5.2 qts took me to almost the top of the hash marks on the stick. I usually chack it again in a day or two and add more if needed. Either way, you'll have most of another qt laying around for later if you need it. I put mine in the trunk (secured of course) for emergency use should I discover I'm ever low on oil while away from the house.

 

Replace the filler cap and dipstick.

 

Start the car (make sure to get the engine running) and look for leaks or problems. Recycle your plastic bottles and oil, and you're done! :happy feet:

 

Side note. After I drove home I noticed running oil coming from the oil filter door. I thought I had a major problem! I removed the door in the driveway and luckily found that all was okay. The splashed oil from the removal of the filter wasn't cleaned up well and it ran back on the belly with the wind. I like the idea of the smooth belly for aero considerations, but it makes it tough to check for leaks.

 

Good luck. And I hope you liked this tutorial.

 

~Buster

Edited June 11, 2011 by Buster1

[georgeny]

FFH Friends,

 

I decided to take a few pics of my first FFH oil change DIY. For those that are interested in doing it yourself, below is a description that I hope will help. Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions. ~Buster

 

Good luck. And I hope you liked this tutorial.

 

~Buster

 

Buster,

 

Been a 100 years since I changed my own oil, and I have yet to own a FFH (waiting for 2012 Hybrids to show), and it is doubtful I will ever actually change my own oil again, none the less I enjoyed your detailed tutorial. It brought back memories of crawling under cars and such of my youth. Now when I buy a new car every couple years I don't even look under the hood, how things change in life. But for a moment you brought back my days of timing lights, oil changing, sandblasting spark plugs and making that dam thing on the points stop on the rise in the rotor to gap it. Hahaha actually not sure I really miss any of that, including doing the oil thing. You put some work into this though and should be commended. And I thank you for providing a nostalgic moment for me. Oh and let's not forget tuning the mixture in the carb!

 

George in NY

Edited June 12, 2011 by georgeny

[paulbuck]

FFH Friends,

 

I decided to take a few pics of my first FFH oil change DIY. For those that are interested in doing it yourself, below is a description that I hope will help. Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions. ~Buster

 

Instructions are for a 2010 FFH. Please consult your OM, and as always, I do not claim any responsibility for any of the statements & instructions below, nor will I be responsible for any damage to your vehicle should anything occur by this thread or discussion. Owners assume their own responsibility and risk for following any of the below recommended steps.

 

Step 1:

Acquire the necessary oil, filters, tools, funnels, and rags. I prefer Mobile 1. Always use 5W-20 for your FFH, and make sure it meets 'specs' oulined in the OM. Below is a list of oil filters that are compatable with the 2010 FFH.

AC Delco PF53(F) ?

Mob 1 M1-102

Motorcraft FL 910S

Wix 51348

Fram PH3614 (never, worst filters on the market, but that's another thread)

Bosch 3330

 

 

Step 2:

Open the hood, remove and wipe down the oil filler cap, pull out and wipe off the dipstick and replace it, but do not seat it all the way down. I think this helps with better drainage of the oil.

 

Step 3:

Lift the car. Drive up lifts work best, but today I rotated the tires too, so I chose a frame lift. The OM doesn't discuss lift points (just the jacking points for changing a tire) so I elected to lift the car by the frame as seen below. Seemed to work out very well. Use EXTREME caution on the rear drivers side frame location as there are 2 aluminum brake lines and 2 other black lines there. I think the black lines are for the EV recharging 'stream.' The picture looks worse than it really is, as the 4 lines are recessed from the frame. But if you have poor aim, or a large lift puck you could easily crush these things. :o

 

Step 4:

Remove the plastic covers for the oil drain and oil filter. Both are clearly labeled (nice job Ford). The oil drain has 3x 7mm screws, and the oil filter panel has 4x 7mm screws and one 10mm screw. Here is the oil drain door.

 

Here is a pic with both doors removed. The front of the car is to the left. You can see the old oil filter (white thing) in there.

 

Step 5:

Using a 13mm socket, remove the oil drain plug, and drain into an approved device. Note how at first the oil shoots rearward pretty far, so be ready. You shouldn't have any problem with oil hitting the panels around the opening. Drain for 30 minutes. That's my technique, and during that time I remove the oil filter (next step) and inspect everything underneath for trouble, leaks, damage, etc. Once found a mouse nest in one of my other cars that had been sitting all winter.

 

Step 6:

Remove the oil filter with a tool of your choice. Don't worry about damaging the old filter, but go easy if possible. It will spill a little as you loosen it, and some will get on the plastic panel around the opening. This will be important to note and clean up. I'll explain later why it 'got' me.

 

Step 7:

Once fully drained, clean up everything and screw on a new filter. I always fill the new filter about 1/4 full with fresh oil and coat the rubber gasket with a light layer of oil...a light layer! Only go hand tight, USE NO TOOLS to attach the oil filter. I say again...hand tight, no tools. Then attach the plastic cover. Now put the 13mm oil drain plug back in using good pressure. Get it tight but don't go Incredible Hulk on it or you risk damage, which means replacing a significant part of the oil pan and engine case. Easy there Superman! Re-attach the oil drain cover.

 

Re-confirm everything is buttoned up down below (on the car, I know what you were thinking) and clear the area for lowering. Lower the car.

 

Step 8:

Add your oil. Now the OM says 5 qts, and somewhere else I read it takes 5.3 qts. A specialist said at Auto Zone that the .3 accounts for the amount that you put into the oil filter...I don't really know. Either way, I added about 0.2 more qts and everything checked out fine. Per the OM, do not fill to the second hole on the dipstick...that is too much. My 5.2 qts took me to almost the top of the hash marks on the stick. I usually chack it again in a day or two and add more if needed. Either way, you'll have most of another qt laying around for later if you need it. I put mine in the trunk (secured of course) for emergency use should I discover I'm ever low on oil while away from the house.

 

Replace the filler cap and dipstick.

 

Start the car (make sure to get the engine running) and look for leaks or problems. Recycle your plastic bottles and oil, and you're done! :happy feet:

 

Side note. After I drove home I noticed running oil coming from the oil filter door. I thought I had a major problem! I removed the door in the driveway and luckily found that all was okay. The splashed oil from the removal of the filter wasn't cleaned up well and it ran back on the belly with the wind. I like the idea of the smooth belly for aero considerations, but it makes it tough to check for leaks.

 

Good luck. And I hope you liked this tutorial.

 

~Buster

 

 

Let me thank you for your detailed instructions. Although my 'do-it-yourself' days are long gone, you never know, sometime I may get adventurous and try an oil change; your step-by-step instructions will be most helpful.

[dar357]

[

 

I decided to take a few pics of my first FFH oil change DIY. For those that are interested in doing it yourself, below is a description that I hope will help. Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions. ~Buster

 

Instructions are for a 2010 FFH. Please consult your OM, and as always, I do not claim any responsibility for any of the statements & instructions below, nor will I be responsible for any damage to your vehicle should anything occur by this thread or discussion. Owners assume their own responsibility and risk for following any of the below recommended steps.

 

Step 1:

Acquire the necessary oil, filters, tools, funnels, and rags. I prefer Mobile 1. Always use 5W-20 for your FFH, and make sure it meets 'specs' oulined in the OM. Below is a list of oil filters that are compatable with the 2010 FFH.

AC Delco PF53(F) ?

Mob 1 M1-102

Motorcraft FL 910S

Wix 51348

Fram PH3614 (never, worst filters on the market, but that's another thread)

Bosch 3330

 

 

Step 2:

Open the hood, remove and wipe down the oil filler cap, pull out and wipe off the dipstick and replace it, but do not seat it all the way down. I think this helps with better drainage of the oil.

 

Step 3:

Lift the car. Drive up lifts work best, but today I rotated the tires too, so I chose a frame lift. The OM doesn't discuss lift points (just the jacking points for changing a tire) so I elected to lift the car by the frame as seen below. Seemed to work out very well. Use EXTREME caution on the rear drivers side frame location as there are 2 aluminum brake lines and 2 other black lines there. I think the black lines are for the EV recharging 'stream.' The picture looks worse than it really is, as the 4 lines are recessed from the frame. But if you have poor aim, or a large lift puck you could easily crush these things. :o

 

Step 4:

Remove the plastic covers for the oil drain and oil filter. Both are clearly labeled (nice job Ford). The oil drain has 3x 7mm screws, and the oil filter panel has 4x 7mm screws and one 10mm screw. Here is the oil drain door.

 

Here is a pic with both doors removed. The front of the car is to the left. You can see the old oil filter (white thing) in there.

 

Step 5:

Using a 13mm socket, remove the oil drain plug, and drain into an approved device. Note how at first the oil shoots rearward pretty far, so be ready. You shouldn't have any problem with oil hitting the panels around the opening. Drain for 30 minutes. That's my technique, and during that time I remove the oil filter (next step) and inspect everything underneath for trouble, leaks, damage, etc. Once found a mouse nest in one of my other cars that had been sitting all winter.

 

Step 6:

Remove the oil filter with a tool of your choice. Don't worry about damaging the old filter, but go easy if possible. It will spill a little as you loosen it, and some will get on the plastic panel around the opening. This will be important to note and clean up. I'll explain later why it 'got' me.

 

Step 7:

Once fully drained, clean up everything and screw on a new filter. I always fill the new filter about 1/4 full with fresh oil and coat the rubber gasket with a light layer of oil...a light layer! Only go hand tight, USE NO TOOLS to attach the oil filter. I say again...hand tight, no tools. Then attach the plastic cover. Now put the 13mm oil drain plug back in using good pressure. Get it tight but don't go Incredible Hulk on it or you risk damage, which means replacing a significant part of the oil pan and engine case. Easy there Superman! Re-attach the oil drain cover.

 

Re-confirm everything is buttoned up down below (on the car, I know what you were thinking) and clear the area for lowering. Lower the car.

 

Step 8:

Add your oil. Now the OM says 5 qts, and somewhere else I read it takes 5.3 qts. A specialist said at Auto Zone that the .3 accounts for the amount that you put into the oil filter...I don't really know. Either way, I added about 0.2 more qts and everything checked out fine. Per the OM, do not fill to the second hole on the dipstick...that is too much. My 5.2 qts took me to almost the top of the hash marks on the stick. I usually chack it again in a day or two and add more if needed. Either way, you'll have most of another qt laying around for later if you need it. I put mine in the trunk (secured of course) for emergency use should I discover I'm ever low on oil while away from the house.

 

Replace the filler cap and dipstick.

 

Start the car (make sure to get the engine running) and look for leaks or problems. Recycle your plastic bottles and oil, and you're done! :happy feet:

 

Side note. After I drove home I noticed running oil coming from the oil filter door. I thought I had a major problem! I removed the door in the driveway and luckily found that all was okay. The splashed oil from the removal of the filter wasn't cleaned up well and it ran back on the belly with the wind. I like the idea of the smooth belly for aero considerations, but it makes it tough to check for leaks.

 

Good luck. And I hope you liked this tutorial.

 

~Buster

[dar357]

Thank you for this Excellent detailed tutorial for a person who wants to really do it themselves. This car is so low to the ground, I find it easier to save $$$ doing my own oil changes on my Diesel Pickup Truck instead. Plus, my Ford Dealership will only charge me $15 for labor - when I bring in my own Synthetic Oil & Motorcraft Filter.

[jerrieric]

Thanks for the information. I printed it off and really appreciate the placing of the lift caution. I bought the Bosch 3330 filter for around $12 at Wally world. But after further reseach I took it back and bought the PUREONE at advanced auto. All the research I've done said this is the number one filter. And only $5.00 using paypal and picked up at my local Advanced Auto store.

Edited November 23, 2011 by jerrieric

[Hat Eater]

Thanks for the information. I printed it off and really appreciate the placing of the lift caution. I bought the Bosch 3330 filter for around $12 at Wally world. But after further reseach I took it back and bought the PUREONE at advanced auto. All the research I've done said this is the number one filter. And only $5.00 using paypal and picked up at my local Advanced Auto store.

 

In case anyone asks, the filter mentioned above is a Purolater PL10241.

 

Joe

[akirby]

Just out of curiosity - why would you go with an aftermarket oil filter that might be inferior to the factory filter? Especially since there is no performance gain to be had.

 

The motorcraft filters are relatively cheap, work great and won't void your warranty. And I know some brands of those aftermarket filters do not perform well.

[acdii]

Just out of curiosity - why would you go with an aftermarket oil filter that might be inferior to the factory filter? Especially since there is no performance gain to be had.

 

The motorcraft filters are relatively cheap, work great and won't void your warranty. And I know some brands of those aftermarket filters do not perform well.

 

True. There are only 2 filters I would use, Motorcraft or WIX. One thing I also found out about filters. Same filters, different packaging. When I had a TCH I did my own oil changes, bought 5 quarts Mobil1 and Mobil 1 filter, it was a package deal Autozone had, I also have a John Deere X500 tractor with a 24 HP twin engine that has a pressurized oil system, which needs an oil filter. I went to JD and got one. Cost me $7, the Mobil 1 cost $10 normally.

 

I got the filter out of the box, and looked at it, then remembered the filter for the JD looked the same, pulled it out of the box. Both filters had the exact same ID stamps on them, only the date was different. Both filters were identical to each other. I thought that was pretty slick.

 

Not 100% positive, but I believe WIX and Motorcraft also come off the same line.

[drolds1]

True. There are only 2 filters I would use, Motorcraft or WIX. One thing I also found out about filters. Same filters, different packaging. When I had a TCH I did my own oil changes, bought 5 quarts Mobil1 and Mobil 1 filter, it was a package deal Autozone had, I also have a John Deere X500 tractor with a 24 HP twin engine that has a pressurized oil system, which needs an oil filter. I went to JD and got one. Cost me $7, the Mobil 1 cost $10 normally.

 

I got the filter out of the box, and looked at it, then remembered the filter for the JD looked the same, pulled it out of the box. Both filters had the exact same ID stamps on them, only the date was different. Both filters were identical to each other. I thought that was pretty slick.

 

Not 100% positive, but I believe WIX and Motorcraft also come off the same line.

 

Motorcraft oil filters are made by Purolator to Ford specs.

[akirby]

Motorcraft oil filters are made by Purolator to Ford specs.

 

Note the highlighted part above. Just because you buy a Purolator filter doesn't mean it's the same as the Motorcraft OEM filter.

[jerrieric]

Like I said all the sites with independent reviews claim PUREONE is the best filter out there. To each their own. Plus I don't see anything in the warranty info that says if you do not just Ford filters that you warranty will be voided. I can get an oil filter change with semi synthetic and filter at my ford dealer for $17.95 but still went with Mobile 1 and Pureone.

[akirby]

Like I said all the sites with independent reviews claim PUREONE is the best filter out there. To each their own. Plus I don't see anything in the warranty info that says if you do not just Ford filters that you warranty will be voided. I can get an oil filter change with semi synthetic and filter at my ford dealer for $17.95 but still went with Mobile 1 and Pureone.

 

It doesn't have to be Motorcraft but it has to meet Ford specifications. If you have a Pureone filter and you have a lubrication related failure then Ford may not cover it - it's that simple. What is it about the Motorcraft filter that is insufficient that would cause you to take a chance (unless it does meet the Ford spec)?

[jerrieric]

It doesn't have to be Motorcraft but it has to meet Ford specifications. If you have a Pureone filter and you have a lubrication related failure then Ford may not cover it - it's that simple. What is it about the Motorcraft filter that is insufficient that would cause you to take a chance (unless it does meet the Ford spec)?

Can't get one local. Have you seen something that states PureOne does not meet ford specs?

[bbf2530]

Can't get one local. Have you seen something that states PureOne does not meet ford specs?

 

Hi jerrieric. :D You probably missed where akirby stated "...(unless it does meet the Ford spec)?". He was not saying it did not meet the spec, only offering some good advice in case it does not meet specs and you had not checked.

 

Also, when checking specifications, it is not a matter of finding something that states PureOne does not meet Ford specs. It is as simple as taking the Ford specs listed in the Owners Manual, and making sure the PureOne filter states that it does meet the Ford/Motorcraft filter spec for your particular filter, either on the box or on their website specification pages.

 

To put it another way, it is not a matter of proving a negative, it is just a matter of matching up the readily available part numbers and specs to prove a positive.

 

Don't get me wrong, it most likely does meet the minimum specs. However, as akirby mentioned, sticking with the Motorcraft filter is always the safer bet, Warranty wise.

 

Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Edited November 30, 2011 by bbf2530

[jerrieric]

Not to be argumentative http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1814632

[akirby]

Can't get one local. Have you seen something that states PureOne does not meet ford specs?

 

There doesn't appear to be specs published for the filter so what this means is IF you have a lubrication related failure and you don't have a Motorcraft oil filter it's POSSIBLE the warranty claim can be denied.

 

You can get motorcraft oil filters by mail by the case fairly cheap from any number of online Ford parts retailers.

[akirby]

Not to be argumentative http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1814632

 

Nobody said PureOne filters weren't good. In fact, they could be better than Motorcraft. The point is without specs to compare (like oil) you can't be sure.

 

If you're comfortable that it exceeds the Ford spec then don't let us stop you. Others might not be so informed.

[bbf2530]

Not to be argumentative http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1814632

 

EDIT - I began composing this reply before akirby had posted his, so parts of mine are now repetitive. Boy, this had not happened in some time now, huh akirby?! By the way Allen, you have a couple of OCD MFT users over there, don't you?!

 

Hi jerrieric. :D Also not to be argumentative, but none of us are saying the PureOne does not meet the Ford spec, we are advising you to make sure it does. So other than it being a nice general oil filter discussion save us all all some reading and let us know what the point of that link is (I am not being a wise guy, just trying to save some reading time)? :grouphug:

 

For example, does it say anywhere in there that the specific PureOne filter you purchased meets the specs of the specific Fusion Hybrid Motorcraft filter specs? If it does, point it out to us and we can all be educated and move on. If not, all I saw in my quick look was this: While it is a nice philosophical oil filter discussion, it does not relate directly to what we are discussing. They are discussing an example of a Motorcraft FL1-A which is not our filters. Next, the information is over a year-and-a-half old. Next, while BITOG is a great site, what you have linked to is a public forum page and (in my opinion) getting spec information from anonymous strangers on forums is sketchy at best. Especially when the correct information, from the correct source. is not hard to find in our Owners Manual and on the manufacturers websites.

 

This is not rocket science. At no point did anyone tell you the PureOne filter does not meet the proper specs. We are simply advising you to check the box the PureOne filter is packaged in and/or the Purolator website to make sure it meets or exceeds the Motorcraft filter specs for your particular oil filter part number/specs. If it meets the specs, great. If not, or if you cannot determine it by any Purolotor information available, we recommend you use the Motorcraft filter instead. In other words, unless someone takes the time to do the homework for you, you need to do some homework.

 

As I stated earlier, the PureOne probably does meet the Ford spec, it would just be wise to check first. Not telling you not to use it, just verify the specs.

 

Hope this clears up any remaining confusion.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

Edited November 30, 2011 by bbf2530

[jerrieric]

The only point I am trying to make is you probably would be hard pressed to find a brand name filter today that does not meet OEM MFG specs. PureOne claims 99.9% efficiency and I have found several reviews, not forums, that rank it #1. I actually bought the Bosch 3330 for $12 at Wally world but took it back based on my research. This discussion is exactly like the motorcylce forum discussions on oils and filters. Get 5 people in a room and upon leaving, there will be 5 different decisions. I guess all the people that go to Promto or other quick change places could have warranty issues is non OEM filters are being used. Especially since some of these places have been caught on camera not performing the work they were supposed to.

[bbf2530]

The only point I am trying to make is you probably would be hard pressed to find a brand name filter today that does not meet OEM MFG specs. PureOne claims 99.9% efficiency and I have found several reviews, not forums, that rank it #1. I actually bought the Bosch 3330 for $12 at Wally world but took it back based on my research. This discussion is exactly like the motorcylce forum discussions on oils and filters. Get 5 people in a room and upon leaving, there will be 5 different decisions. I guess all the people that go to Promto or other quick change places could have warranty issues is non OEM filters are being used. Especially since some of these places have been caught on camera not performing the work they were supposed to.

 

 

Hi jerrieric. :D And the only point we are making is to take nothing for granted and verify the information. While oil and oil filter related engine issues are rare, there is no sense in taking chances.

 

Additionally, as akirby alluded to: our answers are not only tailored to the OP (in this case you), but to others, with varying degrees of automotive knowledge, who may read this thread in the future. Or as the old saying goes, "It's not all about you" (or us).

 

Bottom line is once the information is out there and you are comfortable with your research and decision, we have done our jobs. So now we have done our jobs and you seem to be comfortable with your decision, so all is well.

 

Good luck. :beerchug:

[akirby]

By the way Allen, you have a couple of OCD MFT users over there, don't you?!

 

Yep. More like a bunch of 2 year olds who are mad because their toy is broken.

[Buster1]

Checking in, it's been a long time.

 

I have been recently changing my FFH oil on ramps (be sure to chock the rear tires!!!!) and it seems to work well. Good drainage.

 

Later!