SteveMiller Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 heres the old TB on the left and new one on the right before i put it in 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Wow, that old one looks pretty carboned up. I wonder if that had anything to do with it. Do a lot of city driving? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueScrew150 Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 I dropped our 2011 at the dealer tonight. The DCT indicated this TB problem when I scanned it with my OBDII scanner. I bought the car Certified Pre-Owned, which comes with a 12 month / 12,000 mile comprehensive warranty (with a $100 deductible that the salesmen failed to mention). I am within that warranty period. We'll see what they have to tell me in the morning. If it's not covered, I'll likely pay the diagnostic fee and get the part online simply on principle. No matter what, though, I have to pay $100 to get it out of the dealer service department. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueScrew150 Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 The part is not covered according to the service writer. So he recommended: the 30/60/90k mile service for intake cleaning and fuel injector service, PCM update, and replace the TB. He quoted me $945 plus tax. I am insulted. I paid the dealer diagnostic fee and ordered the TB from taskaparts.com - $104 shipped. Cut my losses and save my $100. The dealership price was $210 for the TB part no DS7Z-9E926-A. The parts countered insisted that is a good part no. (fordpartsgiant.com notes that the newer part no. is **8Z-9E926-A.) 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OscarTheGrouch Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 $150.00? I have been quoted total repair cost cost from Ford service centers of 450 - 575. I purchased the part from Starkville Ford on Amazon for less than 150.00 I changed the part in about 15 minutes. Ford is Gouging you. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OscarTheGrouch Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085Y2QOQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OscarTheGrouch Posted September 29, 2012 Author Share Posted September 29, 2012 Also with the money I have just saved people could they spring for a new set of chrome wheel covers for me? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nar Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 This just happened to my 2011 Mercury Milan at 70 mph on the highway, and also Ford is pretending they never heard of this, and there are mysteriously no codes, when in 24 hours I have found hundreds of complaints about the throttle body, which is the same on Fusion,Milan and Escape. So why are they pretending it isn't a defect? No. Carolina also has the nhtsc checking into the 2005-2012 Escape at this time, as the state feels the throttle control is a serious issue. Everyone who has this problem needs to go on to the nhtsc.gov and file a complaint. It only takes 5 minutes. There are currently 123 complaints on there for 2011 fusion, and 2 for Milan, and 21 of the complaints are about the throttle body. If this is complained about by everyone online it is happening to, they will have to recall it. I am going to post this on every board I see this complaint on, and hope people will do it. Even if you have or had to pay the $500 to replace it already, if you keep your receipts they will have to reimburse you when it is recalled. I also am going to ask them why this isn't covered under the emissions 8yr/80,000 mile warranty when I pick up tomorrow. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fourman Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 Like discussed earlier, the TB is not a direct emissions-related part and because of this i think people getting it replaced u.der such a warranty are the exception, not the rule. I understand the frustration with this issue since mine decided to crap out on a day that i NEEDED to make a 100 mile interstate trip. It was definitely not fun needing to pull over and restart the car every 5 minutes. As far as replacement, i suggest checking around online for new genuine ford parts if you have the time, or do what i did and get one directly from the dealer if you absolutely need it that day. I went to a rather small dealer and they had it in stock... and it was $185 after taxes. The only labor required is to disconnect the intake tube (flathead screwdriver), unclip the wiring harness (bare hands), and unbolt the old TB (held on by 4 10mm bolts if memory serves)... pull off the old one and then put the new one on by reversing the previous steps. This is one of the easiest things to replace on the car and takes literally 10-15 minutes if you include the time it takes to pull the car into your garage, get out the tools, and clean up afterwards. If i could get people to pay me $100 for labor on such a job i would do it all day long. It sucks to pay for replacement parts on such a new car, this i know. You can save youself a lot of money (and likely time) if you just pick up some basic tools and dig in. $185 isnt the end of the world. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted October 12, 2012 Share Posted October 12, 2012 I'm just adding a data point to the discussion. My wrench light came on for about 100 miles, there were no negative symptoms, no engine codes occurred based on OBDII diagnostic check, and the light went off and has stayed off for over 1000 miles now. I'm thinking it might have been a bad tank of gas. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTx Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 My 2010 Fusion did the same thing at 27K miles. It happened 4 times. After the second time took it to my mechanic and not error codes were detected. All was fine for about 11 days then it happened again. No warning just loss of power. This time the check engine light came on, so had it towed to my mechanic. Error code showed Throttle issue. They took to car over to Ford and Ford replaced the Throttle Body at not charge. This was very scarey when driving downt he highway and passing a car then you lose power withoug warning. Even though the Throttle Body was replace, I have no doubt in the future this will happen again since this is a common occurrence. I will be looking to trade in for some other make of car. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 11, 2012 Share Posted November 11, 2012 My 2010 Fusion did the same thing at 27K miles. It happened 4 times. After the second time took it to my mechanic and not error codes were detected. All was fine for about 11 days then it happened again. No warning just loss of power. This time the check engine light came on, so had it towed to my mechanic. Error code showed Throttle issue. They took to car over to Ford and Ford replaced the Throttle Body at not charge. This was very scarey when driving downt he highway and passing a car then you lose power withoug warning. Even though the Throttle Body was replace, I have no doubt in the future this will happen again since this is a common occurrence. I will be looking to trade in for some other make of car. This was obviously a defective batch of throttle bodies which have been replaced. There is no reason to believe it would happen again. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Fusion Posted December 28, 2012 Share Posted December 28, 2012 I am having similar issues with my 2007 ford fusion se that has 98k miles. I replaced my battery and then turned my car on only to find my car barely starting, check engine light on, and my wrench light on. I pushed on the gas and noticed that my car would not rev over 1 rpm. I see there are many posts with throttle body issues, but has anyone noticed this occuring due to a battery change? Car is in very good condition and very well maintained. Trying to find some answers please :-) 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdpath Posted December 29, 2012 Share Posted December 29, 2012 (edited) I am having similar issues with my 2007 ford fusion se that has 98k miles. I replaced my battery and then turned my car on only to find my car barely starting, check engine light on, and my wrench light on. I pushed on the gas and noticed that my car would not rev over 1 rpm. I see there are many posts with throttle body issues, but has anyone noticed this occuring due to a battery change? Car is in very good condition and very well maintained. Trying to find some answers please :-) With the car off, disconnect the battery ground cable (-) from the battery (careful !) and wait for about 10 minutes ( and then reconnect of course) . While waiting, check to make sure you did not knock connection(s) out of place when you were replacing the battery. See post #67. Edited December 30, 2012 by awdpath 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbig89 Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Had the same exact symptoms as you. My fusion's check engine light came on a it was coded something "throttle control module stuck open" supposedly a many have complained of this. Ford had me in and out within two hours. just tell them the symptoms and they should know right away 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbig89 Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 Tell them to replace throttle body. All will be solved 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdpath Posted December 30, 2012 Share Posted December 30, 2012 I am having similar issues with my 2007 ford fusion se that has 98k miles. I replaced my battery and then turned my car on only to find my car barely starting, check engine light on, and my wrench light on. I pushed on the gas and noticed that my car would not rev over 1 rpm. I see there are many posts with throttle body issues, but has anyone noticed this occuring due to a battery change? Car is in very good condition and very well maintained. Trying to find some answers please :-) "I had the same problem. I have a 2008 Ford Fusion. i found the answer on a F150 Forum site. Instead of turning the car on like normal - turn the key on until you get all of the idiot lights to come on without the car starting. Leave it on for 25 to 30 seconds and then start the car. It worked like a champ. Drive the car a little hard for a day or so to let the computer system relearn your driving. Cheers! :spiteful:" - by scooter78 See the original thread here ( also the 'relearning' steps for the car you might want to go through) : http://www.fordfusionforum.com/topic/3933-car-will-not-accelerate-after-battery-issue/?p=46799 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanineMT Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 I just wanted to thank you scooter78 so much for saving my day. I have a Ford Fusion 08, replaced my battery to find my car with the check engine light and wrench light on. My car had a hard time starting and the rpms would not move at all. I would push on the gas, and nothing. I was panicked because I didn't have money to do any work to the car, like a throttle body, like I read in many posts. I researched this issue all day long, then came across your post. I didn't think it would work, but thought hey, what can it hurt? To my amazement, it worked. Thank you thank you thank you!!! You saved the day :happy feet: 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanineMT Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 OK, so referring to my post above, I'm super stoked. My car ran just fine right now. However, my engine light and battery light won't turn off, and my radio stereo won't work; no time, no lights, dead!! I can live with that, but I'm worried about the engine light and battery light. The wrench light is gone, and car is running as normal, but the lights won't go away. Any suggestions or reasons why these two lights won't go out? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VonoreTn Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 I never spent any money on either the wrench light or the check engine light. The check engine light consistently comes on when I run 100% gas, and goes off when I run 10% ethanol. While I get 5-10% better mileage with 100% gas, if the dealer ever finds the PO130 code while I'm burning 100% gas, the repair cost I'm sure will wipe out all mpg savings, especially considering 100% costs roughly 10% more anyway. So I'm sticking with 10% ethanol. One mechanic I know speculated that the ethanol runs cooler than 100% and the oxygen sensor likes that better. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted September 26, 2013 Share Posted September 26, 2013 Assuming the octane rating is the same on E-0 and E-10, cooling is the only difference I can think of. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zimman Posted December 7, 2014 Share Posted December 7, 2014 I had this problem occur: disconnected the battery, after 7 years, to clean the posts and cable ends and to add some auxilliary wiring. After reconnecting it would only start and sit there at a poor idle. No throttle response. No initial high idle cold. Push the pedal to the floor -- nothing!! The little wrnech symbol and the check engine light came on. I found a thread reply in here from a guy named scooter78. He said that something he was told somewhere (I forget where) was to turn the ignition on (all the idiot lights on but don't try to start) and let it sit about 1/2 a minute. This would reset the throttle position in the computer, etc. So, I went out this morning, turned my ignition to 'ON'; and, let it sit about 1 1/2 minutes. Then, turned it to start. Started and runs like a champ! Wrench light is off. Hope this saves someone else some time and shop money. (The engine light will go off after a few times running.) Thanks, again, scooter! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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