VonoreTn Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 I think the "TSB FOR PCM / ABS REPROGRAMMING" may be considered a non-hybrid service, because it is generic to any Fusion, hybrid or non-hybrid. So they are being very literal. What they are ignoring is what the code was, it was for the Hybrid electric motor cooling system overheating, and only the Hybrid has an electric motor cooling system. Note under the hood, you have two separate ethylene glycol cooling systems, with two top, pressurized translucent polyethylene plastic tanks. One is for the conventional ICE (internal combustion engine), and the other is for the hybrid electric motors. Since it was the electric motor cooling system that triggered the event that the Ford Dealer did the $200 diagnostics for, it was a hybrid related incident. I think maybe you are smarter about the whole incident than the Ford's regional decision maker. I'm afraid that the Dealer misrepresented the incident by just telling Ford that you requested a "TSB FOR PCM / ABS REPROGRAMMING", they performed it and it fixed the problem. But you didn't request it, they decided to do it based on a hybrid code that occurred. Be polite but assertive, don't drop it. But if it all fails, you are still way ahead having not bought the extended warranty plan (`$1800). This is why I go to Advanced Auto or Autozone when I get an engine light, and so far I have never turned a Dealer loose with their diagnostics procedure. To their credit the dealer's diagnostics is much better than the Autozone OBDII meter free diagnostic, and sometimes you do need that level of analysis. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Reading a DTC and doing the software TSB shouldn't cost $200 either. Most of the software TSB's under warranty took about 15 minutes. Quadrupling that to an hour at $100/hr. is still half your bill. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captjacksparro Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 Our 2010 Fusion SEL 2.5 had the wrench light come on and no throttle responce. I am planning on taking it to the dealer thursday. Anyone have any ideas? You have to turn the car off to get throttle responce back. It feels like it "jumps" and then no throttle. It never shuts down, but the pedal does not work. It will sit and idle but will not move. You shut it off then it takes several revolutions to start. It has happened 4 times in the last month. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted November 5, 2012 Share Posted November 5, 2012 Throttle body. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allamand Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 just to bring up an old post, we bought our Hybrid last Aug with 88k on it. Was only 14K, so to me, I though what the hey. On the way home it through the "wrench" light, and the code came up as the O2 senser. I just bought both and replacened them myself for less then $200. Later, when traveling to the Twin cities, it would again throw the "wrench" light, and would clear itself when I restarted. I checked the code, and it was a number I could fine NO WHERE, I even took the number to my local dealler and they could come up with nothing. Very strange. So I cleared the codes, and best i could figure is it came on with the AC so it had something to do with that, and was afraid it might be tha battery pack going. Well, winter came here in northern Wisconsin, and no more codes came. Spring time we were close to hitting 100k and I really wanted to get this ffigured out. So a warm spring day, I turned on the AC and drove like a mad man to work, early in the morning. Sure be, the light would come on, but this time I could not read a code on my reader. Well it turned to a cool sping and never was able to drive it to the dealer with the "wrench" light on, that is until today. It was 100F today after work, and the dealer is on the way home, so right before I drive by, the "wrench" pops up! Pulled in and left it running, and they were able to get me in right away. Talked to the service tech and he was able to pull a code well it was running. It is listed as "P0A7C" with TSB 11-7-31, same as "jelg2000" FFH had. I asked my the Service manager what it was going to cost as it was hybrid related. Well, when he walked me up to pay, he had only charged me $52.66, only the Labor! I am so glad, I am less then 150 miles from hitting 100k, so it all happened in my favor for once! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 P0A7C = Motor Electronics Over Temperature Meaning the motor controller electronics are overheating. The fix is a PCM reprogramming which probably increases the speed of the cooling pump in hot conditions. If you ever have a code you don't understand please post it so we can help you. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Hi; I'm brand new to this forum, not even sure if I'm positing correctly (!) I've had my 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid since day 1; and have been very happy with it, have had no complaints; until last week (July 2013) when the wrench light went on. I have approx. 45000 miles on this car. I was driving during a heat wave last week, in 98 degrees weather, at 65 mph on the road to our vacation, with the Air Conditioner on; when the wrench light went on. No other symptoms to speak of, except I thought I detected a slight undetermined odor. I kept driving as the car appeared to be otherwise fine, & we arrived at our destination safely. I immediately searched online, this forum for info, and learned that it could be a number of things! One person suggested checking the tire pressure, I did, all 4 tires were fine. The next time I dove the car was 3 days later, there was no wrench light at first, until about half an hour into the trip, again heatwave/95 degrees weather and air conditioner on; and the wrench light came on, & again I detected a slight odor. Still no issues with performance. Arrived back home with no other issues. Driving locally now, summertime, with air conditioner on, no wrench; except again last night, A/C blasting and sitting in traffic, after an hour the darn light went on again! The next time I drove it this morning, again locally, no wrench light. I am taking it into the dealer next week, hopefully while the light is on. Will post updates as soon as I find anything out. Any words of advice? I would appreciate it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tr7driver Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Please get the engine code error number from the dealer when they scan the engine and share their repair recommendation. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Very well, I will ask them & post here. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savngas Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 My 2010 FFH had 108k when the wrench light started coming on. According to the service manager code was P0A7C. He recommended replacement of the electrical system coolant pump and being a high mileage car I agreed. Light still comes on in hot weather and high speed interstate driving. No drivability issues and resets with ignition cycle. Dealer checked the car again, same code, drained and flushed the coolant and gave it back to me, no charge. The wierd thing is that the coolant in the reservoir was viscous like syrup, not like the ICE coolant (supposed to be the same coolant). Is this common? Anyone willing to check their coolant to see if it has the same consistancy? Any thoughts? (other than the dealer was guessing at a cure) .. Thanks Harry 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 Honestly, I think the dealers don't know what the wrench means either. I've had the light come on since last summer (only comes on in extreme hot weather, with A/C running; & resets with ignition cycle) and Haivng no other driving difficulty, and based on others' comments; I tend to think it is not a serious issue.... I hope I am correct. I do have an appointment next week for a check up with the dealer. Will post updates if any. Neldam 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted July 30, 2013 Share Posted July 30, 2013 (edited) My 2010 FFH had 108k when the wrench light started coming on. According to the service manager code was P0A7C. He recommended replacement of the electrical system coolant pump and being a high mileage car I agreed. Light still comes on in hot weather and high speed interstate driving. No drivability issues and resets with ignition cycle. Dealer checked the car again, same code, drained and flushed the coolant and gave it back to me, no charge. The wierd thing is that the coolant in the reservoir was viscous like syrup, not like the ICE coolant (supposed to be the same coolant). Is this common? Anyone willing to check their coolant to see if it has the same consistancy? Any thoughts? (other than the dealer was guessing at a cure) .. Thanks Harry As explained before, the proper fix for the P0A7C code is to reprogram the PCM with the latest calibration according to TSB 11-7-31. Here's the TSB so you can print it and hand it to him: http://revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=172612 The coolant for the motor/electronics (M/E) should be mixed 50/50 with distilled water just like the engine coolant. Therefore if the coolant seems really thick it probably means they just dumped it in there full strength because they were lazy rather than mixing it properly. If the coolant used full strength like that it's more difficult for the pump to move it and you will get less cooling because there isn't any water (water is much more efficient at transferring heat than ethylene glycol). When you bring it back in, have the service manager check the M/E coolant concentration with a gauge (hydrometer) and have him adjust the concentration with distilled water if the coolant is out of the acceptable 40-60% concentration range. Sounds like these guys don't know what they're doing... Edited July 30, 2013 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savngas Posted July 31, 2013 Share Posted July 31, 2013 Your link does not work for me...can you attach a PDF of the TSB Thanks, Harry 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 (edited) Link works just fine if you're using a computer (also works fine on my iPod). I can't upload because I'm out of storage space. Edited August 1, 2013 by FusionDiffusion 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savngas Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Tried it several times...actually locks my PC up... Thanks...ill look for another source (most require $$ for the details). Harry 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 I was able to open your link, very helpful; thank you very much for posting it. May I ask how you got this info? Is it on the Ford website ? In any case, I took my car in this morning for regular service & told them about the wrench light; waiting to hear what they say. Do you think it would be easy to diagnose even if the wrench light is no longer on ? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Does anyone know what the actual cost should be to fix the wrench light / P0A7C code/ to reprogram the PCM with the latest calibration according to TSB 11-7-31 ? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FusionDiffusion Posted August 1, 2013 Share Posted August 1, 2013 Harry, I would recommend updating Adobe Reader to the latest version on your computer or else download the latest version of Firefox with built-in PDF viewing. If the light is no longer on, the code may or may not be there anymore. If it isn't there anymore when the dealer checks, they won't be able to do anything in some cases (so if it comes on drive it straight to the dealer and leave it running while you have them fetch their scan tool). PCM update should only be about 0.5 hour labor, or about $50. If it's under warranty then it should be free. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savngas Posted August 8, 2013 Share Posted August 8, 2013 I opened it on my home PC, worked fine. Dealer took information and called me for an appointment to do the PCM...sounded like a warranty fix even though I now have 110k on my FFH. Thanks for the tip Harry 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neldam815 Posted August 10, 2013 Share Posted August 10, 2013 Hi, I have an Update: took my 2010 FFH in to dealer for check on THE wrench light. They said it just needs an update on the program,as was said by others earlier. The dealer didn't charge me anything, it was FREE! Thank you all for your help & input. Really appreciate it. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
savngas Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 If this is a software issue I wonder why my car "waited" until it had 110k miles before exhibiting the problem. I am not too confident that software is my problem and this is my greatest concern. Currently it is just the light but later it could strand me if we cant pin this down...dealer has been very cooperative but has not been able to identify the cause to date. Harry 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Good luck. Keep us up to date. You know when your computer fixer says do this and it works? Cars are getting that way too. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunNotWalk Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Same thing happened to my Energi. I was driving and the car shut down to 2mph in battery mode while in moving traffic. After weeks at the dealer, they said a pin broke in the harness and everything was OK. Shortly after getting the car back it happened again. The car has been sitting in my driveway for 2.5 months and has 1500 miles on it, of which the dealer put 400 miles on. I've had nothing but problems since 300 miles. The battery issues, electrical shut down, doesn't run in electric mode. I'm waiting for my court date. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larryprince Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 I live in Las Vegas, I have a 2010 FFH and I got the wrench light about 3 months ago (during the 110+ heat of summer). The car would buck severely and the wrench light would come on every time I applied the brakes in the regenerative braking speed region. Accompanying message read a charging system problem. I limped the car home using the E-Brake only (that sucked). I took the car into the dealership, and after re-flashing the EEC, the car still had the problem. They had to contact Ford's regional engineering office, and were told the high voltage wiring harness had a short in it. They ordered the harness, which took two days to get here, replaced the harness, and the problem was fixed. Cost me $650, but worth every penny. Love this car! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lolder Posted October 23, 2014 Share Posted October 23, 2014 It's a shame you couldn't get them to cover it under the hybrid components warranty but it isn't mentioned as one of the covered components. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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